Wine On the Rocks

Great wines are born from the land

By Marisa Finetti

From volcanic to ancient marine fossils to dried river beds, these six terroir-driven wines showcase how unique geology influences what’s in your glass.

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Brut Champagne Hautville NV
Petite Boheme

When talking of Champagne, you might hear the word “Kimmeridgian.” It represents a geological time, 155 million years ago. The bubbles in your glass come from grapes that grow in soils from when ancient shelled creatures settled at the bottom of seas. These animals fossilized and left us with soils rich in calcium carbonate, contributing to Champagne’s minerality and high acidity, creating wines with chalky notes, while the clay adds a bit of heft. $90. Pair with any of the rotating snacks on the menu. petiteboheme-lv.com

Passopisciaro Contrada P (Porcaria) 2020
Ferraro’s Ristorante

The volcanic region of Etna is home to soils as black as night from the basalt that spews from the active craters throughout the year. As expected, the wines impart mineralilty to the nose and palate. Producers make wines from specific crus (aka contrade) to celebrate Etna’s diversity. Passopisciaro showcases a bounty of fruit against the scorched ground. $218. Pair with Eggplant Parmigiana. ferraroslasvegas.com

Domaine de la Côte de l’Ange Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2020
Bouchon

While the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region has varying soil types, it is best known for its smooth, rounded rocks called galets. These stones absorb heat during the day and radiate it back to the vines at night, fostering optimal ripening. Clay lies below the rocks, which retains water and supports deep-rooting vines. $125. Pair with Paté de Campagne. thomaskeller.com/bouchonlasvegas

Miguel Torres Cordillera Camenere 2019
Crush Pad

Chile has deep roots in French varieties like Carménère, originally from Bordeaux. Once mistaken for Merlot, Carménère thrives in Chile’s Mediterranean climate, where clay soils play a crucial role. These soils allow for even ripening and water retention during hot summers, and balanced fruit expression. Clay also contributes to smooth, full-bodied wines with a hefty mouthfeel. $16 by the glass. Pair with the Spanish Board. crushpadwinebar.com

Mikra Thira Santorini 2021
Estiatorio Milos

The Greek island of Santorini is crescent-shaped due to a volcanic eruption in 1600 BCE. Walking through the vineyards, you’ll notice chunks of black lava rock strewn among a sea of gravel. The gravel promotes excellent drainage, forcing roots to dig deep for nutrients, while volcanic ash and pumice lend wines remarkable minerality, salinity and complexity. $170 bottle / $34 glass. Pair with Charred Octopus, traditionally prepared in the Santorini style, with fava and capers. estiatoriomilos.com

Hamel Family Wines “Isthmus” Sonoma Valley 2018
Caramá

In Sonoma County, California, volcanic soils dominate the slopes of the Mayacamas Mountains, which were formed by colliding tectonic plates. On the western slopes of this mountain range, red iron-rich soils are underlain with gravel and fractured basalt from ancient volcanic eruptions and lava flows. This easy-drinking Cabernet Sauvignon blend represents the terroir through its black fruit, herbaceousness, iron and minerality. $190. Pair with Braised Veal Osso Buco. wolfgangpuck.com